![]() They just don't thrive and by July they really start looking pitiful. First, I have not had much luck at all with any red variety though I do have some that have managed to stay alive for years now. It is a struggle for many/most Japanese Maples to survive in our climate, they just aren't built for it. Young trees that are growing well get root bound far quicker than older, established trees so allow for both species and age when deciding how often to root prune and repot.Ĭlick to expand.Thanks I'll try to help if I can. Maples generally take a few years to reach this point though. I've found it better to repot some trees with fast growing root systems each year or it becomes difficult to get them through the summer. ![]() Roots must constantly grow so gradually the spaces in the pot fill with roots, leaving less and less space for water as time goes on. Trees that have been in the pots for several years also dry out quicker than recently potted ones. My trees do well with automatic watering as the sprays operate for 10-15 minutes which is way longer than anyone will stand and water the pots and gives the water time to penetrate right through. I believe this is probably the reason for the Japanese saying to water 3 times - once for the leaves, once for the branches and once for the trunk.Īnother alternative is less water over an extended time. A third repeat may be needed to get water right to the centre of the pot. Second water rapidly soaks into the damp area and then penetrates another 1/2" or so. First water slowly soaks in maybe 1/2 inch max while remainder runs away. I use repeat watering to make sure the water soaks in properly - water as normal then come back a couple of minutes later and water again. That helps to make sure the entire root zone is properly wet at least occasionally. One alternative is to soak the pots in a tub once a week. If the soil is a little dry it may become hydrophobic and actually repel the water. Water runs out the drain holes well before the soil is properly wet. Dry soil shrinks so the first place the water runs is down the sides and out the drain hole. Water running out the bottom of a pot is NOT an indication it is well watered. Shallow pots just dry out way too fast in drier climates. Here's some more information on proper tree planting.Deeper pots are definitely better. Finally, water, water, water, especially during dry spells for the first two years. ![]() Though that used to be the recommendation, trees actually do better when their roots learn to grow in the native soil. Refill the hole but don’t add anything such as peat moss to the soil. Make sure the root flare, the tapered area at the base of the trunk, is placed above ground. (This will help give your tree a jumpstart on getting established.) Then place the tree in the hole at the same depth it was in the pot. Remove the burlap or pot, and use your gloved hands or a knife to rough up the surface of the root ball. When you've located a good spot, dig a hole about 2 or 3 times the width of the root ball. If you do, it won’t have room to stretch its limbs. Don’t jam it up against the house or plant under eaves, wires, or overhangs. And always make sure it can withstand winters in your USDA Hardiness zone.Īfter that, it’s important to plant it properly. Ones that have the word "dwarf" in their names are typically shorter, as are weeping trees, or trees with drooping branches. When shopping, check estimated tree heights and look for shorter varieties. In fact, many trees have been bred for smaller spaces. Luckily, there are plenty of petite trees that can be planted in your yard or garden. If you have a small yard, a big sugar maple or stately oak won't fit.
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